The Pilgrim Route 'Simeon Verkhotursky' in Swerdlovskaja Oblast, Rossya
Out of an a few hundred years old past comes to us a route in Russian Asia, committed to a local saint. This pilgrim route lies in the Russian province Swerdlovsk with capital Yekaterinburg -Russian's third town- just in Asia. This route is partly decayed, so as many things in nowadays Rossya, partly restored as a result of nowadays forces on restoration.
The basic information about this route I recieved at the historical faculty of Ural university in Yekaterinburg. I researched the route myself. After placing the old route on nowadays maps I went the route on my bicycle and on feet in the summer of 1999. On feet I was in a small group with a Dutchman (H. de Zwaan, Utrecht) and a Russian (A. Chumkov, Yekaterinburg) alongside the southern part of the route. I tried to clean a special northern part of the route by own work in the woods north of Makhnjewo. Anybody may contact me in Haarlem, Holland (Marjoleinpad 58, 2034 ME, tel 023-5355897) or in Swerdlovskaja Oblast, Rossya (Dom 3, 624397 Pbi4KOBA = Richkowa) The tel. there is for now: (34319)21695 My name is AnneKlaas de Groot. My age is 53. In Russia my contacts are partly with Nowo-Tiechwinsky Monastyr, Yekaterinburg and with Verkhoturye Palomnik (=Pilgrim), Verkhoturye. More information about the route is worked out below.
The route - traject 1
The route - historical basis 2
The route - towns 3
The route - art 4
The route - roads 5
The route - main monuments 6
The route - landscape and nature 7
The route - the pilgrim path 8
The route - churches 9
The route - ways of going 10
The route - pilgrimage 11
The route - qualities 12
The route - the local saint 13
The route - monasteries 14
The route - accomodation 15
The route - practical tips 16
The route starts in Yekaterinburg and goes north over most secundairy roads by Alapajevsk and Nizjnil Sinjachiekha to Makhnjewo, then to Merkushina and from that village by the main secundary road to Verkhoturye. The length of the route is about 430 kilometer. Because of two parts of the route, among those the traject between Makhnjewo and Merkus- hina (see 8) the road cannot easy be gone by car over its whole length. See 10. Merkushina is the place of pelgrimage (see 6, 14) of the local saint. This saint is cannonized in 1704 and is named Simeon of Verkhoturye, see 13. The normal road from Yekaterinburg to Verkhoturye lies more to the west: the magistral- asphalt to Serov with sideroad 25 km to Verchoturje. This traject also easy can be done by train. There is a railwaystop 12 km from Verkhoturye in the west, where trains from the south stop about six in every 24 houres in each direction; 4th class transport ('elektriechke') and normal trains (coupé/platskart). The traject Verkhoturye - Merkushina mostly by pelgrims is gone in the direction opposite to the old route by autobus or car/taxi.
The traject follows roads and tracks alongside next villages and towns. Map: Swerdlovskaja Oblast administratief 1998 scale 1 : 750.000.
Yekaterinburg - (Verkhurje Pishma) - Baltiem - Mostovskoye - Verkhoturka - (Koltash) - Oktjabrskoyje - Lienovskoye - Sokolowo - Glienskoye - Aramachka - Deyewo -Raskatiekha - (Kurort Samoshwet) - Aramachewo - Taborih - Koptjilowo - Alapajevsk - Nizjnil Sinjachikha - Ostanino - Kirovskoye - (Yelniechnaja) - (Bubshikowo) - Richkowa1 - Shiepietseno - Komarowo - Mugai - Jersovka - Makhnyewo - Merkushina - Ust-Salda - Richkowa2 - Krasnogorskoye - Verkhoturye.
(..) means: you pass this place at some hundred meters distance. The precise track of this route, distilled from the historical map and mostly not to see on any modern map, has some interesting secrets that can the best be cleared up 'en route'. Also see 6, 7, 12.
2. The route - historical basis
There are books, maps, documents, different materials, all about this route, in the possession of (the library of) Monastyr Verchoturje, Episcopat YJekaterinburg and Ural-university, Yekaterinburg. I regret not to be such an historic freak to like very much to study this literature; a field of knowledge lies before us, but will not change the reality. At an exhibition in Yekaterinburg in the summer of 1998 in a vitrine I found a book that was opened at the page of a map of an historcal route in the province, committed to the holy Simeon Verkhotursky. Dated october 1914. I could not recieve a copy, so I copied this map myself with much patience and will try to give the same copy as an illustration to this info as soon as possible. I could hardly read the handwritten names of this map. I met the problem that different villages had changed there names after the revolution; on my way people in those villages informed me about it. On the map were given many more churches or monastries than there are nowadays, but also is clear that in the past not every village had a church - quite different from western Europe. About the existence of the route I verbally was informed at the historical part of Ural University. They said, students had seen the route, it was very beautiful and they had taken photos. After my exploration of the route I had to conclude, those students went by car and main road to Alapajevsk and Nizhnil Sinechikha; they thought they were on the old route (what was strictly token not true); they saw the restored churches alongside that part of the route and found them beautiful - of course. Those churches àre part of the route; because there was the old route there are such big and beautiful churches. But the route is much more interesting than crossing the nowadays main asphalt road. By exemple, our route took in the old days already existing roads to the north. It bended eastward from Yekaterinburg to join the Irbitsky Trakt: the old road to the second trade-post after Verkhoturye. We are on this historical route from Kirovskoje to Mugai, about 100 kilometer. After Mugai it went northwest by a bridge crossing river Tagil. The stone foundations still can be found. Their hight and breadth show the importance of this route in the past. The bridge-ruine is called Jekaterinabridge.
At many places alongside the route very big churches are still a ruine. Such is reality in Rossya, not too bad for an ecotouristic visitor. For a real pelgrim, she or he who wants to pray, this might give a complication while going the route precizely over its whole length. Alongside the route seven places have their beautiful church or churches; there are four monasteries; but seventeen places only have a ruine. See 9 and 15 for a meaning of this. Not only maps or churches are the historical basis of this route. There are several more buildings that show on old splendour. That are pre-revolutionairy stonebuilded stores or shops, all are ruines or are not restored. They show rich agricultural production in the past. Their architecture is remarkable. More about art and architecture in 4.
There are some towns alongside the route, but little. This part of Siberia has many towns, but the route is at its best characteristic a countryside-route. The towns are: - Jekaterienboerg Capital of the province; third town in size of Rossya - Alapajevsk Old industrial centre; birthtown of Chaikovsky - Verkhoturye Historical and churchcentre of the nortern Ural, Kremlin
Verkhoturye is a most remarkable town. It probably is the only town in Rossya without high house-buildings. It only has countryside-houses. Its industry is greatly underdeveloped. It has the only Kremlin of the Urals. Its two cathedrals are for the seize of the town greatly oversized, but beautiful to see. The big one in the Kreml is still being restored and was finished just before the revolution. It can recieve three thousand people, standing (as is usual in the orthodox church) on its great floor; this number only to understand out of the many devotees to Verkhoturye after the finishing of the railway from Yekaterinburg to the north in (?)1894. The town has seven churches outside this two cathedrals. Two of those not yet are restored. In the Kreml are one church, the above mentioned cathedral and a men's monastyr. A women's monastyr in town has its own beautiful situated church. The town is small, has some shops, an office of Ural Telecom, a museum, an hotel, a café, a disco, a market and an autobusstation. The railwaystation lies at 12 kilometer. Verchoturje is capital of its rayon, almost half as big as Holland. The town is situated at 59o, as north as Stockholm.
Alapayevsk is the big frumpy, dirty town in de middlepart of the route. It has its traditional, old industry south and east of the centre. The hotel is rather bad even for its low price (about 3 USD). But there are two splendid churches, the proud of the town. There is a remarkable good museum in the birthhouse of Chaikovsky, committed to him and music over the whole, designed by students from Saint Peterburg. The young Chaikovsky went to church in the church opposite to the museum. Worth while to visit, especially when going the pilgrim route. Alapayevsk is capital of its own big rayon in Swerdlovskaja Oblast. North of the town lie the villages of Sineshikha, with its open-air-museum, Romanov-memorials and newly built monaster. Its most northern passiolok (big village) is Makhnjewo, also part of the pilgrim route.
Yekaterinburg is the one million-capital of the province. Read the Lonely Planet book "Russia" for its many qualities. It has many museums (art, geology, history), restaurants and boulevards with even a canal. But over the whole, as it is the third town of Russia by its size, it can hardly or not be compared to Moskwa or Saint Peterburg. It has a big, busy station, that already for years is in repair. The metro is one poor, short line. Over the whole country and province the town is still called Swerdlovsk, if you want to buy a railway ticket to this town. The pilgrimroute starts in the centre and goes alongside the busy Ulietsa Kosmonautov to the north.
We find special forms of art alongside this pilgrimroute. Outside the museums in the above mentioned towns we find: - architecture, on - churches - stone buildings - wooden houses - folk art, connected mostly with the wooden houses. As far as we do not find these forms of art alongside the entire route, we may give attention to two special locations: - Verkhoturye as a centre of architecture spread out in the town - Nizhnil Sienjachikha with its open-air-museum on folk art and wooden buildings.
What architecture we find in Verchoturje? There are remarkable stone buildings, industrial art, partly still in normal use. There are many old wooden houses with beautiful windows and roof-forms, what also is folk art. What offers the open-air-museum? This place is famous in the whole province. It lies on such a distance from the capital, because it was and is the centrepart of the old route to Merkushina. The big church here is of a beautiful and unique stile. In the church is a museum with icons (many of the holy Simeon), incunables, bells, paintings, embroidery, etcetera. In the outside are wood-architecture buildings with some houses with beautiful woodcutting. What art we find alongside the entire route? All wooden houses are different; all wooden houses are exemples of Russian folk art. We look at windows, doors, roofs. Inside the houses, if we have the chance to come in, we may met remarkable wood-architecture, embroidery, old objects, probably paintings etcetera.
The roads of this route are of different arts and qualities, but most are formes of asphalt. What a difference with the very past, when all roads were with their natural surface, very good equiped to walk. At the same time when, by the way, also every house was a part of the Holy Rossya, what I very pity don't met anymore....
Going out of the big town Yekaterinburg the road is a very big and noisy main road with eight lanes. We there can go by tramway. After a crossing with shops and kwas (the national Russian drink) we can have autobusses, as far as any place between here and Verkhoturka. But after Verkhurje Pjisma the road becomes more and more quiet and partly we can avoid the asphalt by going pedestrial pathes alongside. Any road now is quiet, not one road is as busy as comparible roads in the west. After Verkhoturka we find a field road with many holes filled up with water. That means: rather somewhat trafic at least. This road goes through woods with good nature, butterflies and birds in especially the last part. It crosses the young river Rech.
In the next parts the route has many corners although the main direction keeps north-east. Every short part has onother kind of surface, but the most is asphalt. One part is gravel, one part is a field road. To avoid the asphalt the route can be varied by field roads to the town Rech, where is a good hotel. From Rech or from Aramachka we find field roads to and alongside river Rech to the village Aramachewo or Kurort Samoshwet. Also our next day alongside river Rech has field roads. From Koptjilowo we may decide to take a bus to Alepajevsk over the main road, because the old track has some problematic aspects, although its surface is earth. Under other things it passes the rubbish-dump of Alapajevsk. The field road north of Alapajevsk is much better, but by practical reasons we here also may decide to take a bus over the main asphaltroad. Then we miss the good sight to the new monaster where the old route has a corner to east. At the church of the open-air-museum the route another time bends to the right. It crosses a small river and brings us on a good sand surface to Kirovskoje. We also here can have a bus on a newly built asphalt road. Now the route has a track of thirty kilometer field and grassroads, even a few kilometers have water (and musquitos). Here is a wide and woody landscape with good nature, rare moor flowering, a Siberian village with railroads instead of normal roads. We end crossing the fields to the (still) as a monaster looking village Bubshikowo. From here there is poor asphalt to Makhnjewo, that the best can be adviced to walk. Alongside this part there also are buses. In Makhnjewo we cross the water and soon discover that the asphalt ends. A fourty kilometer track to the main place of Pilgrimage lies before us, kilometers that cross a Siberian moor with the remakable name: Great Devil's Moor. Over at least four kilometer; not yet is decided if the crossing is possible in summer. This part happely has an alternative by train: five kilometer to the east from the rivercrossing in Makhnjewo. Having crossed the hill we come alongside river Tura, where the route goes west. There is a road partly made with modern asphalt, partly with gravel, nowhere very nice to walk. An alternative not yet is found. Buses only go from Ust-Salda to Verkhoturye, only two times a day and with luck.
A pilgrim route should have its churches and chapels as the frequent and main monumental and devotional fenomena alongside. In the by the devil and the revolution undressed Rossya it is to regret that our route in this aspect does not blossom. Only little places on the way invite the passenger to pray. They find attention in this text in paragraph 9. Happely there are some more monuments alongside this route, that partly for many Russian people also are devotional places. Take, by exemple, the two Romanov-memorial places: the last tzar with his family in the orthodox church is 'on the role' to be declared holy because of how they ended their lives and the unnumberable gifts of honour to this people by the Russian people since 1917. Also an Elisabeth, sister of the tzarina, is declared holy. We find this memorials at the route: a. in Jekaterienboerg, when we pass the blue painted church in the centre: a wooden chapel stands at the place of the house where the family was murdered; b. in Sinechiekha, when we turn first time right: the mine where this sister and more aunts and uncles of the tzarfamilie were dropped after their murdering; at a tree is a memorial plate; from here the body of holy Elisabeth was transported to Jeruzalem, where she nowadays has her grave. c. Also in Sinechiekha, but not at the route, to be precise: in Verkhurje Sinechiejha, is a house in which a museum on the Romanov-family is realized.
And then you can discuss other monuments. In a 'basa otdicha' in Baltim is a beautiful 'djetski gorodok'. The alternative walk to Rech has a christian monument or chapel in the woods. In Mugai is a nice museum in an old schoolbuilding. The house of a familiy Tolbachov I liked very much as a wood-monument. Jekaterinabridge crossing river Tagil north of Mugai is monumental. At several monuments of the second world war you guess that before there has stand a church. Trees sometimes feel like a momument: a lane in Pjisma, an arctic pine with eatable seeds in a village garden. An outlook over river Rech with a bench I felt monumental. Etcetera.
Also the architecture and churches at the beginning and end of the route (in Yekaterinburg resp. Verkhoturye) are greatly monumental and unique. The Kremlin of the last place, the house that Rasputin ordered, the white Kathedral, all in Verchoturje, are never to forget. In the middle of the route the church and houses of the open-air museum are of great importance, are memorials on wooden architecture and folk-art.
7. The route - landscape and nature
What landscapes we find in this part of Russia? Agricultural landscape of three kinds: - small-size agriculture around villages, with the houses, gardens etc. Cattle-breeding, patatofields. Altogether pitoresk. - great-size agriculture at some hills around Glieskoje. - riverlandscape-agriculture. We pass different rivers, that show their typical riversides. Especially alongside river Rech this is of an extraordinary beauty by the high riverbanks, natural river-accompaning woods and the blinking waters. The landscape of rivers Mugai and Tagil is more spread-out and wide. The Tura has its old agriculture alongside with little production nowadays, but with the same huge impact on the landscape. This agriculture landscapes have a more natural outlook as average in western Europe. Many elements of the landscape look natural. Although you can trace some effects of acid rain still nature and landscape little seem to be influenced. The high-growing herbs have little non- blossoming representativs. So there are many flowers, insects and birds still on the influenced fields and fieldboundaries. Many landscapes alongside our way are natural. Every part of wood is alife with flowers, birds, water and musquitos. The woods in this part of the world are called 'northern rain woods'. The typical Siberian wood is northern rain wood. We cross some south-Siberian woods, that means: most deciduous trees; birch, ash, pine, fir. Wet woods, rain woods. Only some needletrees, so this woods are not called Taiga. Taiga we find much more to the north. Here the wood is much more productive and can feed more different plants and animals. Woods on dry places have more pines and firs. Rare woods only consisting of pines and firs here still are not called Taiga, but have their typical character. As woods we met: river-accompaning wood, deciduous wood, pine wood, mixed wood. Outside the woods we met at this route the Siberian moor, where no tree can stand, but the representativs are modest. This landscape has its living mosses as characteristic. As an overall view on the landscape we see: most flat hills, rivervalleys, woods, but no mountains. The route is on the boundary between the Urals and West-Siberia, that means: no mountains, no unending flatness, but everything in between. Everything also natural; natural landscapes, water, hills, nature. I remember very good the birdsinging in a wood beside the path after my discoving of the Irbitsky Trakt after Kirovskoje. What delicious a singing... but what penetrant the musquitos at the same place. We can say: you intensively met the Siberian circumstances when going this route. Has the way sufficiant comfort? Read paragraph 15.
8. The route: the pilgrim path
With this indication is meant: the 40 km-track between Makhnjewo and Merkushina as a part of the 430 km long pilgrim way or pilgrim route. On the historical map and in historical literature this path is called: Simeonawa tropa or trapa = path. This path is a most remarkable part of the route in several ways.
Out of the description of the last paragraph: here you can meet Siberian nature in the best way, in principal rather comfortable on a beaten path.
In the sense of pilgrimage it is remarkable to realize, that this path, with its passing of the Great Devil's Moor is a part of the nowadays, and a same part of the old route. Also in the old times there was this moor to cross. Crossing it seems to be a real part of the pilgrimage, as pretended by the (old) church. Merkushina, where this path goes to, is the place of pilgrimage of the holy Simeon, the first pinnacle of the route.
In the dispute about comfortable transport (see 10) - imagine you go this route by car (what is normal in nowadays Russia) - this path is an absolute break. Only in winter a heavy transporter can cross the woods and moors. You have to park your car and walk. You can also park at the railwaystation of Jersovka and cross the woods by train. Only the sportive pedestrian can continue like normal.
And the next aspect of this path is, that it is not yet explored since long. Only parts have seen by people. A Makhnjewo firm this winter makes more equal the most southern 15 kilometer of the route. A part I have seen is totally occupied by rubbish of treecutting. The most northern part I cleaned myself; interesting numbers of young trees grew upon the surface of the old path. I threw beside fallen trees and branches. Out of this work the path appeared as majestetic as a castleroad in old Scotland. Remarkable is that this northern 10 km of the path is not visible on any normal map. First 30 kilometers are still drawn, but in reality partly doubtfully existing. So there seems to be a good work to do.
Churches give a double impact onto a pilgrim route. 1. They dress the landscape we pass; 2. They are culmunition points of our devotion or religiousity. Without this last aspect a route cannot be called a pilgrimroute; without the first aspect our walking has no direction, no handhold. What can be told about the churches alongside this route? What happy we can be with our many churchruines - we are sorry about those, but: happy with - because of their meaning onto aspect one. They look good in the landscape. Some of the ruines can be used for praying, what is good for aspect two. Of course we are also happy with the beautiful churches, because of their meaning onto praying or devotion, aspect two. Seven places alongside the way have good looking churches; together with the ruines where you can pray you will have this opportunity alomost every day when you walk two weeks. Some details. Most churches and churchruines in Russia have a great impact in the landscape. The church brings the power of God onto earth and people (realize to this point the special architecture of this churches!) and for this reason it is good when the church can be seen over a maximum distance. The churches originally are placed central alongside roads (often you see a special corner of the road at the place of the church) or upon hills. By knowing this the church- authorities have been eager at least to erect the tops of the towers of the ruines, to paint them, to erect the cross - because then the church can be seen again in the landscape and the power of God might be recognized again. So most of the ruines and all good looking churches dress the landscape of the route. You walk in principal from the church that slowly disappears behind your back to the next one, that grows at the horizon from its first seen cross to a real church. This effekt is so good, I might say delicious, that sometimes it - of course - is disappointing that the cross-wearing building shows to be a ruine when you come nearer. Sometimes in a ruine are services with a priest at an improvisated iconastase. In Aramachewo is an orthodox community in another building than the big and in the landscape exellent churchruine.
This route, as it comes to us from the past, has had its reality by pilgrim people, going on feet. Although: the route is long, it takes a two-weeks walk, and the same time back on feet? Questionable. Probably already horse-cars and sledges took this route; and especially so you can imagine the route was used in winter. Nowadays the normal transport in Russia (and the west) is by car. As an exeption in the west people on pilgrim routes go on feet. They mostly do this in their holiday as a kind of entertainment. Also becycles for some routes are used. By exemple to Santiago de la Compostella this is normal. In Russia this customs and entertainment is not known. The people that are interested to go or see this pilgrimroute go by car. They are not interested in the original route, in the countryside, only in the most spectacular aspects of the route, in casu the churches. Russian people can not imagine that other people may be interested to go this route on feet. Our ways of going this route might be, as I experienced: - on feet. This paragraphs work this out. It is possible to go in a group with a car with tents and luggage, quite different from normal pedestrial going. See 15. - by bicycle. You can go the route in about four days. For the good practice of Russian people you can imagine this route can be gone - by car or autobus also. It is interesting, that for this last going:
a. The first part of the route, where are little churches, can be avoided by going the main road to Alapajevsk. You then first see the church of Aramachewo. b. An autobus or car can stop at the good sight-seeing of river Rech at Taborih. c. This transport can visit the churches, monaster, momuments and open-air museum in Alapajeksk and Sinechikha. d. The going to Jekaterinabridge and Makhnjewo is recommended. e. Because there is the path of the holy Simeon, this quick pilgrimage can have an happy end. Stop your car, park your autobus and go on feet to Merkushina. There is built a hotel in Makhnjewo; alongside the road not far from the moors comes another house to recieve guests; if there come people there will be built a bridge crossing the moor during spring and summer. So assured me the Makhnjewo Ljeskhos. This firm expects tourists over this pilgrim route.... In the time of walking the autobus can drive back over about 300 kilometer and met you where you come out of the woods, go to the place of pilgrimage, bringing you to Verkhoturye or Richkowa2 (where are places to overcome the night). So you at least belongs to those people that first go to Merkushina to give attention to the local saint; and after that go to the great centre of pilgrimage Verkhoturye. Mostly, more 'lazy' pilgrims do this in opposite direction.
For any going of this route it might be interesting to distinguish special places where you can find a registration that you have been there, so that you with a filled card can recieve a 'souvernir' in Merkushina. Anybody who wants to go on feet or on bicycle can contact me, see start of this story.
In Europe we say: pilgrimage is something personal of the pilgrim. To pray is no practice anymore. Visiting holy places you try to find a devotional attitude. The effect of the visit might be you feel a new energy there or in yourself. With this attitude you can go a pilgrim route, be yourself, feel yourself near God in a practice of devotion and attention. In Russia this seems to be different. The practice in the orthodox church is to exercise different (forms of) praying. The praying is also something of the body in gesticulation. The attitude of the believer is very much in honour to God, Maria, the holy people and the priests. Out of this also the pelgrimage is something with many aspects in the outside reality. For the believer in Russia it is normal to ask your religious father his permission on your plans. When you go on a pilgrimage you may expect his blessing. When I went with a group of Russian people to try-out this pilgrimage route a priest of a church in Yekaterinburg-north would give us the necessary blessing.
A pilgrimroute could probably be accompaned by the church-authorities. In Europe this shows to be not neccesairy. Ten pilgrimroutes are developed without church- escort. But for the orthodox practise (also in western Europe) this escort is normal. To this route in the orthodox realm this orthodox escort is not yet the case. I guess: the church does not know what to do with this route. In Russia normally everything that is recommended must be in a splended state. This route is not in that state. And: how can this pelgrimroute be accompaned by the church if only foreigners are interested in? Know that all foreigners are protestants or catholics or atheists at least by birth, so all are enemies of the orthodox church - really: so is the opinion! and again the orthodox church does not know what to do with this route. Must this route be prooved real by the foreigners? Can the route be developed without church-escord, so as in Western Europe? Does the orthodox church miss its chance to come into good contact with foreigners? The future may know the answers, and also see 12.
In an overall-view the route has some special qualities. It has a quality on pilgrimage, so as talked about in the previous paragraphs. It has a quality in landscape and nature for walking, see 7. It has a quality for culture: art, churches, musea, monuments. See 4, 6 and 9.
The above mentioned qualities are not equally spread out over the route. The middle part has much culture, also the very end. The last part has best nature, but also one day in the begin walking. The landscape alongside river Rech is exiting and lies in the first part. For the pilgrim the middle part and end have most churches. The beginning of the route has least qualities. There the trafic and the asphalt is the most emerging. Little churches. In 5 is written about an alternative. The very beginning of the route can cut short by going by normal autobuses. For the becycle here is no lack of quality; also a car will not recognize it or goes the magistal straight to the middle part of the route, see 10.
The quality of pilgrimage in my opinion is upgraded by using the pilgrim path ( See 8) I guess not one pilgrimroute in the old world (or in Ireland?) has such accented, arduous and almost difficult conclusion of the pilgrimage. Does the oldest christian church on earth has deepest knowledge about what for humanity is needed? Out of this last questions I have the opinion that any tourist going this pilgrim route at the end of the route will be a pilgrim. What trouble makes the church about those foreign tourists (see 11) if she takes the quality of this route for serious..? I myself discovered, if you come in Merkushina after having gone the Simeonawa Tropa, you in the monaster will be recieved as a pilgrim.
13. The route - the local Saint
Simeon lived in the village Merkushina als a taxidermist of fells in about the year 1645. He mostly prepared the coats so that they were just not finished. By this reason the people scoffed at him and did not pay. He disappeared for days so that people could not pay him. In summer he catched fish - as has come down to us: on a special rock in river Tura - but not more than one a day, just enough for himself. He took care of sick and old people en told the people about the life of Christ. He seemed to be a well-educated man and nobody knew why he left his place of birth, somewhere in European Russia (His route was from Aleksandrov, Permskaja Oblast, over the old Aktai-road). He was not very healthy and lived short. He was about 35 or 40 years old when he died. He was buried in the village and after some years forgotten. In 1692 something remarkable happened on the cemetery of Merkushina, that was situated on the riverbank of the Tura-river. A coffin appears above the ground and shows a body that is not perished. The deeply beleeving Russian people knew what that ment: God gives His Holy to the people. The body of only a Holy will not perish. This man is a Prawednik: a man who lived as an example. The believers fell down to pray, saved the coffin under a roof, touched the coffin to help at illnesses or problems. The earth from the grave has a strength. The water of the grave is curative. Several things happen that later are recognized als wonders. The bishop of Siberia, who has his chair in (the Kreml of) Tobolsk, in 1605 visits the capital of Ural: Verkhorurje. He consecrates the church of the Holy Trinity. He hears about healing in a far-away village and sends a special deligation to Merkushina. This churchservants on the cemetery "recognize the smell of the Holy". The bishop knows for to make strong the christian belief a special Holy of the Ural is recommendable. He himself goes to the village to the great astonishment of the easy villagers. Who knows this dead man? What is his name? Nobody knows. The body, when God gives it to the people, might have an average age of 50 years. An old man now can tell about this man in his youth, who lived such an easy and exemplary life. He cannot remember his name. In the night after this meeting the bishop and his two companions all dream the same dream, in what dreams the name comes clear. Now the name of the man was Simeon. In 1704 the body of the Holy is taken to the capital with a great ceremony. The name of the Holy is declared Simeon of Verkhoturye. Place of pilgrimage is still Merkushina, where are built several small and beautiful churches at the white-illuminated riverbank. Where comes a woman's Monastery. In the church of the man's Monastery of the Verkhoturye Kreml the body is still kept and honoured. Go youself to see the beautiful balcony and hear the special Akafists on the memory of this Holy.
In the previous paragraph a reader already mets two monasteries that exist in the places of pelgrimage of the route where here is token about. There are more. In total five monasteries are on or have to do with this route. In Yekaterinburg exists the Nowo-Tiekhwinsky Monastery, that has its mean buildings in the eastern outskirts of the town (Ulietsa Otdikha). It has two filials. One is in the centre of Yekaterinburg and can be met if you walk in one of the bigger parks. Religious souvernirs are made in the main building by clever hands and machines and sold in the chapel in this park southside of the centre. Another filial is the monastery in Merkushina that here we take as separate. The organisation and functionating of such monasteries, led by women (the head is mother Ljubov), is admirable.
Half way on the route in the dwelling Sineshikha we find a recently newly build monaster where live eight or ten black-coated, rather young men. They show a remarkable elan in erecting this high and big building. The new monaster is situated behind a chapel committed to the Romanov-saints, that were found in the mine at that place beweeen the trees. We enter this area by a fence and see the chapel, mine and monastery. In Merkusjina we find the nice building in high fence of the women's monastery, part of the Nowo-Tiekhwinsky. The nuns of this building take care to the church on the grave of te local Saint (see our last paragraph). This church has a red iconastase and a cellar where you may recieve (holy) water after the service. If pilgrims come there will be held special services - outside the many normal services. The Akafists on the memory of the local saint are sung by womens voices often and impressing.
Verchoturje has its two monasteries. In the Kremlin are -outside the remarkable entrance- three big buildings. When we come in: left side is the entrance-buiding of the man's Monastery, that is called Nicolajevsky Monastery. In this building is the library and the administration. - Straight on we see the church committed to Nikolas (national Saint) and Simeon (local Saint). In this church are many services. - Right hand side we see a huge brown Cathedral, probably still in restauration. Its size is only to deklare out of the many pilgrims before the revolution and after the building of the railway from Yekaterinburg to Serov. The building is splended in its architecture from the outside, and inside. In Verchoturje town are more churches. One of those is taken taken by a famous and a little bit hidden woman's monastery. It possesses a famous Maria-icon that is hung in the central hall. The name of this momaster is Pokrovskiy Zhinskiy Monastir. Another name in Verchoturje must be mentioned. Unusual for Russia exists an organisation in this town that is not of the church, not commercial and non-gouvernemental. It is Verkhoturye Palomnik, that especially wants to take care of visitors and pilgrims to and in Verkhoturye/Merkushina. Office in the SOBOL-hotel.
An interesting aspect of this route is its lack of normal accomodation alongside. This brings two questions. 1. How in the past pilgrims overcame the nights? 2. How in present days visitors of this route may overcome the nights?
To the first point we have to answer a second question: how in the aspect of accomodation the route in the past looked? The axioma on this point is, that in historical situation the route had much more -not only chapels and crosses at the roads and crossings- also lodges and monasteries alongside. The number of monasteries alongside the route probably was a multiple of its number nowadays. (The before name of Kirovskoje was Monastersko; also Bubshikowo had or was a monastery; etcetera) A monastery is adhered to lodge and even feed pilgrims - as is done nowadays onto 'autobuspilgrims' in Merkushina. And the unknown number of lodges .... why not many churchlodges for the comfort of passing pilgrims. Where do you find such nowadays? I only know it from the pilgrimroute to Santiago de la Compostella, but those lodges mostly are privatly commercial. For sure, this possible situation alongside the route is a part of an already long passed history.
How is the situation nowadays? We only find a few official lodges alongside the route. There are cheap hotels in Rech, Kurort Samoshwet and Alapajevsk. In Makhnjewo is built such. The one in Alapajevsk cannot be recommended. In Merkushina the hotel of the Monastery is not easy in lodging foreigners. In Richkowa2 is a Dutch house, a real (privat) lodge. In Verkhoturye is a good hotel. In about ten places on the one fortnight walk is no hotel or lodge. Will it be recommended to take a tent with you? No, it is not. We must find lodges in a sportive way, better than to be a hiker with a tent, sleeping-bag, cook-equipment etcetera. Russian people don't trust my succes in finding this lodges; have never seen a real pilgrim; like to carry huge luggages; so never come into a house of the common people. Why not? The answer lies in the next receipt. For your own comfort: carry as little luggage as possible. You then not only don't need a car to carry your things; you not only begin to look like a real pilgrim (who in the past had almost no luggage); you for the best are able to organize your own night. So you will met the Russian life from inside of the houses and souls of the people. How do you do it?
Quite naturaly. You arrive in the village in the early evening after your thirty kilometer walk; you're not quite fresh. You find a place to sit down, worn out. You sigh and eat something. You take care of your tired and warm feet. If you are in a group one member goes looing for water to drink. Or children come to see you. What do you intend to do in this far-off village? Sleep. Eat. Spent the night. Really? After some time an adult arrives. She (or he) comes onto the opinion that you are poor people. You are tired, you have no roof, you need warm food. She (or he) overcomes her/his diffidence of not being able to recieve guests. You are dependent and not dangerous. She (or he) comes in the mood and courage to invite you to her (his) house. If you are in a group the villagers will discuss in what houses you will be distribu- ted. You show to be thankful. In the house you admire the house, household and animals. Out of your luggage you present tee (leaves), bread and some sweets. In your luggage you do not need to have sheets or blankets, but an under-sheet can be recommended. Further you only carry some cloth and toilet-articles. You will recieve soup or other food; don't be surprised to recieve the same soup next morning. After breakfast you offer to help in the household on any kind of a task. This is pilgrimscustom at least in Russia. I am still happy to have done in the summer of 1999 next jobs: repair a ceiling, go with the children to a swimming pont, bundle branches for the 'banje' = sauna; cut wood for burning; clean a stable; and more; together with my friends on the try-out. Really, so this pilgrimroute comes into reality without all churches be erected.
In Yekaterinburg Tamara Konowalowa is able to give lodge to pelgrims during summer. You can reach her in Ulitsa Mamina Sibiryaka (a famous writer) number .36-515 mon - fry 10 -15 h. In the hall of this office-building you call number 439. This street is not far from the station and by the way: part of the route. The lodge she offers is a simple house for students (who at summertime are absent) between the central station and trainstop Pervomaiskaya: Ulitsa ....... no .... Tamara can cook for you if you want it. 120 Rb a day is a low price for an easy place inclusive food. Tamara's telephonenumber (at her home after 19 h) is 563908(3432) She speaks english.
In Verkhoturye is a rather good hotel. The cheapest room is about 90 Rb a night. In the hotel and opposite to it are cafés. The name of the hotel is: Gastinitse Sobol, Central square, Verkhoturye, tel (alleen Russisch) no ..... There are two english speaking officials in Verchoturye. Vera is head of a scool in 12 km from the centre near the railwaystation. Vera Voroshilowa, Flat 27-2b, Mira street, 624391 Verkhoturye, tel (34)319 - 21695, at scool 8-18 h. Galiena is head of the NGO Verkhoturye Palomnik with an office in Gostinitse Sobol. Her name is Galiena Jacoblena Boridiena, tel at home (34319)22376.
In cases of need a foreigner coming on the pilgrimway may contact the Nowo-Tikhwinsky Monastyr, central Yekaterinburg: Ulitsa Zhelonaja Rozja 1, 620144 Yekaterinburg, tel. 474728. Sistra Jevgenia speaks english; ask for her.
Its is important to prepare your going to Russia by obtaining a visum. This purpose in different ways can be filled in. The cheapest is the help of a personal/businnes invitation. The prize of it is not yet quite clear. Ural university asks 50 USD, to be payd in advance. Verkhoturye Palomnik things to be able to do this much cheaper. The easiest way to organize an invitation is: sent your passport-facts + your dates to Anneklaas de Groot, 624397 Pbi4KOBA, tel.(34319)21695, and pay 50 USD on his Postbank in Holland no 1480443. Do it early: UVIR and post each take one month. - With your invitation you go to your Russian embassady en pay about another 45 USD to recieve your visum (in two weeks). If De Groot can organize your invitation for less than 40 USD you will recieve back the difference.
Interesting is the low prized train-connection Brest (Belarus) - Yekaterinburg. This train goes one or two times a week, saterday - ?wednesday and brings you to Asia in 51 houres. The ticket in platskart (3d class; open carriages; good room and sleep) costs about 12 USD (In Belarus 9000 Rb, in Russia 360 Rb). Also from Moskwa- Kazansky Waksal are cheap trains to Yekaterinburg. If you buy the tickets on the train at local places the high tourist prices are abolished since september 1999.
---------------------------------------------------- This text is upgraded till august 2000.